Nail techs looking for help with lifting at the free edge is such a common thing to see these days across various platforms within the industry. The problem with trying to answer this question is that, as so many things could be causing it, it can often be difficult to give a clear cut answer!
In this post, we will explore varying factors that could be leading to lifting at the free edge.
Nail Preparation
Let’s start with the preparation of the nails and there are 2 factors to consider when it comes to nails prep…
Firstly, let's take a look at what type of tool is being used to etch the surface of the nail plate. Using something such as a buffer will over-smooth the nail plate and leave no “grippy” surface for the gel to adhere too. We want to ensure we are using a nail file, or sanding band (ideally with a grit of 180), to gently remove the shine and “etch” the surface of the nail plate. It's important to practice caution at this stage and not go over the same area more than once, we do not want to over file and thin the nail plate. If you use an etch ‘n’ prep tool, ensure you use multiple pads - a minimum of one per hand - when prepping the nails, as the surface area of the pad is small, so will become dulled quickly.
Secondly, we need to look at over dehydration of the nail during nail prep. Here at Nail Order we encourage what is described as a ‘dry prep’. This means no additional use of cleansers, dehydrators or acetone after preparation of the natural nails. Instead, thoroughly dust off nail debris with a dusting brush and go straight in with a primer! Primer can act, in a sense, like a dehydrator. It works to cleanse the nail of oils and prepare it, a little like double sided sticky tape, for the application of nail products. Whilst it will provide some cleansing and dehydrating function, it will do so much more gently than pure acetone etc. This method of nail prep helps to prevent lifting and over-dehydration of the nail plate - this could be the reason you are experiencing lifting at the free edge.
See more on dry prep here.
Capping The Free Edge
What is capping the free edge? When you seal the end of the nail with a product (for example, your gel polish or top coat), this is what we would describe as capping the free edge. This can offer a protective layer at the edge of the nail - therefore a more ‘chip resistant’ finish, reducing the likelihood of lifting.
It's important to understand that not all brands or systems will recommend to cap the free edge. In addition, if you do cap the free edge, it’s very important to keep the free edge sleek and not bulky.
Personally we have found that when it comes to capping the free edge this can be a personal preference and works for some and not for others.
Finish Filing
Much like capping the free edge, this can be personal preference, however from experience, we have personally found that finish filing can aid longevity and reduce lifting from the free edge.
What is finish filing? Simply that, finishing your service and then filing. This doesn't necessarily mean performing a full shape at this point, although this is how some techs operate, for the majority finish filing is lightly filing to tuck everything in and perfect at the end.
When finishing filing - this needs to be done in a specific way where you are not simply filing the free edge, including the gel, at a 90 degree angle. Furthermore, if you are capping the free edge, simply filing at a 90 degree angle will undo any capping efforts you have made.
When finish filing, you should be filing with the nail file angled under the free edge on the nail. This will ensure you are filing the natural nail, rather than the gel itself, and that you are tucking the natural nail behind the gel.
Gel thickness
You may have issues with lifting from the free edge if the gel has been applied too thick at the edge of the nail. What happens in this circumstance, is that there is so much surface area of gel that the gel is forced to wear away. The gel at the free edge should be applied thinly to both create a more aesthetic appearance and improve longevity, remember that if your application is not spot on you can always refine.
Nail Health
Your client may have come into their appointment with thin and weak nails. A thin damaged nail will likely give you more trouble with adhesion, naturally someone with thinner or even damaged nails might not have as great retention as someone with a strong healthy nail bed, often because their nail is more brittle and or flexible. This is why it is always important to assess the nail health before starting service and encourage clients to partake in good aftercare. Gel enhancements will always last longer on someone who has healthy nails!
Aftercare
So what is good aftercare? Dehydration of the nail bed can potentially result in lifting at the free edge. This is why we encourage a solid aftercare routine. Is your client using cuticle oil on their cuticles and underneath the free edge? Are they keeping their hands nourished and moisturised? If the answer is no - they could become dehydrated and curl away from the enhancements you have provided and cause chipping. It can sometimes be difficult to discuss aftercare with clients as we know from experience - some clients may think you are just trying to sell them something! If your client doesn’t want to buy or use cuticle oil, you should still emphasise the importance of keeping their hands hydrated and using moisturisers. The client will end up saving money in the long run by extending the life of their nail enhancements and save you time and energy. If clients continue to disregard your advice, which we know can often be the case, ensure you explain to your clients that they will need to visit you more often.
It’s important to consider the weather too - if it is particularly cold outside our hands will naturally be drier, more brittle and therefore more likely to crack easily. This could affect your nail enhancements too - just think hydration - do I need to stress this a little more to my client today?
Lifestyle
What is your client's lifestyle like? Are they using their hands every day? Do they go swimming… are they a hairdresser or work in hospitality where they are constantly bringing their hands in and out of water? (e.g. their nails are constantly flexing and need a more suitable base - perhaps our Flexi Gel or Syner gel). Or do they work at a computer where they are constantly bashing their fingers off of a keyboard?
If the answer is yes - the client is constantly causing small traumas to their nails - this could be why you see lifting at the free edge. These lifestyle factors can of course affect retention and result in chipping.
It is imperative to think about this as each client will require a different kind of product. Someone with an active lifestyle may be better suited to a hard gel, whereas someone who requires more flexibility in their hands may require a rubber base or even a hybrid gel.
Are your clients using their nails as tools? Any enhancement is at risk of damage from anyone using their nails to say open cans, open parcels or packaging - anything that involves using the free edge of your nails poses risk! This is why we try and encourage the use of our Keysie nail saving tools something you can explain to clients after service.
Prescriptive Manicures
Maybe the product you have used is just not compatible with your client's nail type/ lifestyle in particular. This is why it's important for nail techs to perform what is called a prescriptive manicure. By providing this to every new client, you can really get a greater understanding of what your clients nail health is like and what they get up to day to day that might affect the longevity of their nail enhancements. This way you can address specific nail issues or needs, rather than a one-size-fits-all approach which will ultimately improve your clients results and retention. This can be a bit of a trial and error process to begin with.
If I look at myself as an example - I have an iron deficiency and my nails curl up slightly at the ends. If your client was experiencing something like this, there are things you can do to combat lifting. For example, encouraging the client to go with a rounded nail shape or scrubbing the base layer at the free edge before applying your base layer could reduce the chances of lifting. Information individual to the client, their lifestyle and health can only be gathered by talking through it with your client first at a consultation.
You can learn more about prescriptive manicures and which product is best for which client here
In conclusion, there is no one set answer on the cause of lifting at the free edge. There are many things to consider and it is definitely important to understand that not every client will be the same and not one thing will work for everyone, or every nail tech! By taking the points discussed onboard, you should reduce your chances of experiencing lifting at the free edge.