Let me ask you this, do you have a HEMA allergy? If the answer is no then in all truth, NO you don’t NEED to be using HEMA-free products. That might sound strange coming from a brand that is predominately HEMA free but here at Nail Order we like to give accurate and real-world advise. The truth is that HEMA, also known as 2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate has been used in the industry for decades with no issue, so why has it been demonised now? (
The industry has seen a rise in allergies since around 2019, there are a number of reasons for this;
- The rise in the use of at-home nail kits
- Covid and the changes that may have caused in people’s immune systems
- Over-exposure to under-cured gel
- Poor education and practices
- A lack of education from brands.
- Higher than reported % of HEMA being used in nail products
Prior to the introduction of builder gel there was no such widely reported problem in the industry with allergic reactions, but HEMA was still present in products so is builder gel the answer?
I (Bekka) personally am of the opinion that the rapid rise in the use of builder gels may be a largely contributing factor to the allergy epidemic. What it boils down to is that I believe that builder gels have been used for purposes they may never have been designed for (such as creating extensions) and as a result the product is being applied thicker than it can cure. This has resulted in uncured monomers sitting on the natural nail which are then able to be absorbed into the bloodstream.
The reason that HEMA ranks as one of the top allergens in nail products is that the molecule size is considerably smaller than that of other chemicals used in the production of gel. To put it into context a HEMA molecule is approximately 3 and a half times smaller than that of di-HEMA (a completely different chemical of a similar name). The smaller the molecule the easier it is absorbed into the skin and blood stream.
Key points to note about HEMA:
-Products containing HEMA may not legally be bought by those who are not professionals
- Products containing HEMA must be labelled ‘For professional use only”
- The legal or “safe limit” for HEMA is no higher than 35% in any gel product
- HEMA may be denoted on an SDS as 2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate
I want you to think of a HEMA allergy like a nut allergy, if you do not have a nut allergy you don’t take note of products labelled as “nut free”, to say that if you do not have the sensitivity then, whilst you do need to be aware that allergies can develop at any time to anything, you needn’t make you purchase decisions based on an allergy you don’t have.
At Nail Order, we believe in a prescriptive manicure approach, so nail techs should carry a range of products to suit a range of clients, this would include clients with sensitivities.
Something important to factor when using HEMA-free systems is that removing HEMA will reduce adhesive properties. Whilst at Nail Order our HEMA-free products have been designed to act in the same manner, adhesion-wise, as products that do contain HEMA, it is important to be meticulous with prep and application methods when using HEMA-free or hypoallergenic products.
Ultimately whilst HEMA is an allergen, there are several other common allergens in nail products and its important to remember that allergies can happen at any time to anything. If as a nail tech, you have never had an issue with products containing HEMA do not feel pressured into using HEMA-free products instead.